The door that sticks is telling you something

The instinct with a sticking door is to plane the edge that rubs. That is usually the last thing you should do, because the door is rarely the part that moved.

Look at the gap around the door first. An even gap on three sides with a rub on one corner points at hinge screws that have pulled loose. The fix is a longer screw through the top hinge into the framing behind the jamb, which pulls the whole door back into position in about five minutes.

A wedge-shaped gap that is tight at the top and wide at the bottom, or the reverse, means the jamb has racked. That happens with settling and with humidity swings, which North Central Florida delivers on schedule every summer.

A latch that will not catch is usually a strike plate that is an eighth of an inch off. You can see it: the latch leaves a shiny witness mark on the plate showing exactly which way it needs to move. Filing the opening or resetting the plate fixes it permanently.

Interior doors that swell seasonally are the one case where removing material is right, and even then the amount is small and the edge gets sealed afterward so it does not soak up moisture again.

The point is that a door is a system: slab, hinges, jamb, and strike. Fixing the wrong part gives you a door that works this month and sticks again by August.